How to take panoramic

How to Take Panorama Photos With Your Phone

If you’ve ever tried to capture a stellar city skyline, or the kind of sweeping vista that makes a 10 mile hike totally worth all that sweating, you understand why panoramic photos are so friggin' fabulous. Panoramas elongate your field of view so you can picture-ize the entire scene. Here, we’ll spill the secrets on how to take panoramic photos with your phone (or iPad!).

Most newer Android and iPhone models have a panorama mode built into the camera, but if you don’t wanna go that route, there are a number of panoramic photo apps available to download.

What does panoramic mean?

Ask most people what panoramic pictures are and they'll probably be quick to give you their own visual description. We all seem to kinda know what a panorama looks like, but what does the it mean, and how is panorama different from panoramic?

Panorama refers to a wide and unbroken view of an area. Panoramic is panorama in adjective form, often used in describing the way a photo looks. (Ex. "Wow! What a great panoramic photo!")

Yay. Parts of speech. Now let's take some pics.

How to take panoramic photos with your phone

Open your phone’s camera and put it in panorama (or Pano) mode.
Hold the phone vertically for a horizontal panorama, or horizontally for a vertical panorama.
iPhone users can tap the arrow to change the direction of the panorama. Android users can move left or right without specifying their direction.
Tap the shutter button to start your panorama.
Move the phone to capture the desired scene, keeping it as steady as possible.
When you’re done, tap the shutter button to finish. If you reach the end of the line/box that displays on your phone while taking a panorama, it may automatically stop taking the photo and save it.
Open your Camera Roll/Photos to view the panorama.

Tips & ideas for perfect panoramic pictures

Here are a few tips for avoiding jaggy edges and choppy photos.

Slow(ish) and steady wins the race

The trickiest part of taking panoramic photos is keeping your phone steady and moving at the right pace. It’s also the most important, because incorrect movements result in jagged, black sections that make the edges of your panorama look torn.

The goal is a continuous, fluid movement. Too slow, and your photos can overlap in odd ways. Too fast, and you’ll probably veer off course or end up with a blurry photo. iPhone and most Android cameras have a line that you wanna stay on, and pop-up messages to keep you on course.

Listen to the pocket brain! If your phone tells you to move faster, up, down, etc., try and make it happen. Struggling to hold your phone steady? A small tripod can make all the difference, and you can pick one up from online retailers without dishing out a lot of dough.

Give it a test run

Thinking about the elements of your panorama before you shoot can help you avoid a zillion retakes. Try doing a test run—cue up your pano, but don’t press the shutter button and watch what you’re capturing as you move. This will help you figure out the start and end points for your photo, and figure out if there will be any problematic elements (like moving objects, a stranger standing next to you, or your finger) in the shot.

When you’re ready to shoot, watch your panorama build on your phone while you move. Panoramas work by stitching your images together, and usually your current photo and a preview of the next one will appear while you’re shooting. Note that the wider the shot, the more curved your panorama will appear.

Try, try again

Perfect panoramas rarely happen on the first take, so try not to get frustrated if you have to make a few attempts before it comes out right. If you’re in the middle of shooting a panorama and the arrow suddenly jumps back to the start of the guiding line, your phone aborted the shot because you veered too far off course. This happens fairly often when you’re first starting to take panoramas. Head back to your starting point and try again.

Get creative

Once you’ve mastered all these panorama rules (say that five times fast), get artsy and break them. Moving your phone at an arc or up and down a little can result in creative, reality-bending looks.

You may also wanna play with the oft-forgotten about vertical panorama. This is a fun way to photograph tall buildings, monuments, trees, etc.

Another out-of-the-ordinary way to use panoramas is to clone your subject (no science required). This pretty much only works when your subject is a human, or an extremely well-behaved pet. Put them in the beginning of the shot, and then after you’ve panned passed them, have them move near the end point. Boom! You’ll look like a photo master with minimal effort.

Fix your panorama with paint-on adjustments

One common panorama problem is exposure. As you move your phone through the scene, the amount of light in each part of it probably isn’t gonna stay exactly the same. If part of your otherwise glorious panorama is looking a little too dark or washed out in parts, open it in the PicMonkey mobile app. Head to adjustments, and use Levels to adjust your entire pic, or paint it on right where you need it.

While you’re there, you may also want to give Brightness a try, pump up your colors with Saturation, and make everything look sharper with Clarity. Learn more about paint-on adjustments in our short video, and experiment until your photo looks poi-fect.

And if you ended up with those all-too-common jagged edges, get rid of ’em on the quick with Crop.

Add some wow with stickers and effects

The best part of editing panoramas is that there’s more room to play! Get whimsical with stickers (arrows are fun for calling out easy-to-miss details in your pic). Paint-on photo effects are also ridiculously enjoyable with long photos.

Try applying Ombré or Tint in different colors to parts of your image, or go part black and white and part color. We can’t wait to see what that creative brain of yours comes up with, so show us your panorama magic by hashtagging #picmonkey.

Not on PicMonkey mobile yet? No problem — download now!

Explore what else you can do in PicMonkey: use our reshape photo tools, make a color splash image, or get fresh ideas for your Instagram backgrounds!

Panorama Photography | How to Take Panoramic Photos | Nikon

Advanced

Featuring Rod Planck

Simple Steps to Big Pictures

Glossary

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D700, PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2. 8D, 1/8 second, f/16, ISO 200, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D700, PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D, 1/8 second, f/16, ISO 200, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D300, AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II, 1/4 second, f/22, ISO 200, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II, 1/4 second, f/20, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D, 1/30 second, f/16, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D300, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2. 8D, 1/250 second, f/16, ISO 280, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D300, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D, 1/250 second, f/16, ISO 280, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D, 1.6 seconds, f/22, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D, 1/4 second, f/16, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D, 1/5 second, f/22, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2. 8G ED VR II, 1/6 second, f/16, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II, 1/6 second, f/16, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D2X, AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D, 1.6 seconds, f/22, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D3S, PC-E NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED, 1/6 second, f/16, ISO 200, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

D3S, PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D, 1/6 second, f/16, ISO 400, manual exposure, Matrix metering.

When we asked the noted outdoor and nature photographer Rod Planck about his method of shooting panoramas, the first thing he said was, "I like to keep it simple. " We like to hear that, though he did add that making panoramic images isn't spontaneous point-and-shoot photography; it takes some preparation. But it is pretty basic, and the results are very cool.

A panoramic image depicts a field of view considerably wider than the one that can be captured in one exposure, and it tells a more complex story and draws the viewer of the image closer to the feeling of what it was like to be there.

To make a panorama, you take several shots that capture overlapping sections of the scene; then you use imaging software to seamlessly stitch (that is, join) the sections together.

For Rod, panoramas represent a different and dramatic way of capturing the grandeur of nature, and they allow him to present that grandeur in large-size prints. "Panoramas gain information, detail and resolution," he says. "Stitch three sections together and you've almost tripled your resolution, and thus tripled your enlarging capabilities." Which is a significant, as part of Rod's business is fine-art sales. It will be significant to you, too, if you'd like to maximize the quality of a framed print for your home—or for the print you'd like to give as a gift.

Essentials

Gear: First, a tripod with a built-in bubble level. Next, a ball head for that tripod so you can smoothly and accurately turn your camera to capture the sections of the scene that the software will stitch to form the big picture.

The essential first step: level the tripod. Then attach and level your camera. Many Nikon DSLRs offer a feature called Virtual Horizon that will guide you to your level best. If yours doesn't have that feature, Rod suggests a little accessory called the Double Bubble level, which slides into the camera's hot shoe.

For most panoramas, it's best to shoot with your camera mounted to the tripod in the vertical position; that way you'll have plenty of room to crop the top and bottom of your stitched image.

Shooting a panorama horizontally is fine, too, but it can result in very narrow image. Best bet: experiment, then evaluate.

Settings

Rod shoots aperture priority for almost everything, but not for panoramas because he doesn't want the camera making automatic settings. "I go to manual exposure for my panoramic images," he says. "I pick the brightest part of the scene, meter it in manual and set the shutter speed and f/stop to bring the manual meter to center on the display. Then I take a sample shot and check the histogram to see if I'm within an acceptable range." (Because that sample shot is not going to fit anywhere in the sequence of image sections, it's a good idea to delete it immediately to avoid confusion later on.) You can also use Matrix metering to get your starting point for the test shot. Once you get your setting, use it for every section of the panorama.

As you can see from the accompanying photos' file information, Rod generally chooses f/16 and f/22 for the great depth of field they provide.

He recommends setting the camera's white balance to either daylight or auto. "If you're using some of the newer software to do the stitching, you can experiment with leaving the white balance at auto, as the stitching software will blend those images for you. To be safe, and until you know for sure, set the white balance to daylight. The most important thing is to shoot every image section at the same setting."

These are the individual sections of a panorama, shot with a PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D lens.

And here is the final image, after the individual images have been stitched together.

The lens you choose will influence the amount of overlap of each section. "With 50mm and longer focal lengths, I'd say do a 25 percent overlap for each frame," Rod says. "If you're using a lens shorter than 50mm, a 50 percent overlap is a good idea. " Don't worry if your overlaps aren't exact; in the ballpark will be good enough for the software to do its job.

Rod generally uses focal lengths in the 60mm to 135mm range, but anything from 50mm to 300mm is fine. Whatever lens you're using, it should of course be manually focused to infinity; you don't want the AF system changing the focus point from section to section. That is if you are shooting a wide open landscape or similar subject that is very far away, the depth of field will cover it. If on the other hand, you’re photographing a subject that is much closer than the distant horizon, manually focus on the most important object in the scene.

Don't use “Auto ISO”, otherwise the camera could change the exposure between shots if the lighting changes, this would cause unwanted variations in the images.

The Process

"With the camera hand held, I look through the finder and actually rotate my body through the scene to get an idea of what I'll get," Rod says. "I'm finding my composition and deciding how many sections I'm going to have. You've got to have a composition that works well—just as any photograph, it should be a balanced, pleasing image."

When you're composing the image, remember that a panorama will pull the viewer left to right or right to left; there's not a lot of vertical movement.

To keep your downloaded images in order, the first section in any panorama should always be the left side of the composition. "I loosen the panning base on the ball head, swing to the left side of the composition and take a picture of my finger," Rod says. "Then I go through the sections of the panorama, allowing for the amount of overlap I need based on the focal length of the lens, tightening the panning base each time for the shot. After I've shot the last section, I take a picture of my finger."

Here's the reason for the finger photographs: "When I do panoramas, because of overlapping and subtle changes in light, I'm likely to shoot several of the same scene. When I view those images after downloading them, perhaps as thumbnails in a viewing program, if I don't have a line of demarcation—a stop and start to each image's set of frames—things can get confusing very quickly. The fingers keep the sets straight and allow me to easily separate the sets."

How many images in a set? "If you're shooting verticals, five to seven, maybe nine; I'd say ten at most. You've got to realize how big these panoramas are going to be—big files and big prints, if prints are your eventual aim. A really nice looking panoramic photograph for people starting out is five verticals."

The stitching software will do the rest. While each program has its own instructions, in general what they do is find the common pixels and bring the edges together. When they've done that you can crop the tops and bottoms as you choose.

Rod uses the Adobe® Photoshop® CS5 photo merge tool to stitch the sections, but any Photoshop version that offers photo merge will do the trick.

A Variation

Finally, Rod told us about his technique for making panoramas without moving the camera. "If you've got a Nikon PC [perspective control] lens, it will do the moving for you."

One of the PC's lenses movements is the shift: the lens shifts up and down from its center position to keep the camera's view parallel and perpendicular to the subject. For panoramas, you can use that shift, but with a twist. With your tripod and camera leveled and a PC lens on the camera—Rod uses either the PC-E NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED or the PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D for this technique—rotate the lens unit 90 degrees. Now you can shift the lens to the left, return it to center, and then shift it to the right for a three-section panorama. The last two accompanying photos were made using this technique. You can also use the PC NIKKOR 19mm f/4E ED lens.

If you'd like to try this, be aware that the camera should be in the horizontal position unless you want the result to be roughly a square format image. And be sure your test shot is made with the lens in its center position.

Whether made by the standard method or the PC variation, we'd guess that panoramas are going to open your eyes to the creative possibilities of the big picture.

Select Nikon COOLPIX digital cameras feature an Easy Panorama or Panorama Assist mode (check your camera’s manual to be certain). These modes are simple to use. The Easy Panorama mode is unique in that it allows you to physically pan the camera from left to right, or tilt the camera upwards down, with the camera capturing 180 or 360 degrees of panorama images and seamlessly stitches them together for you.

Read more about the Easy Panorama Mode here.

The Panorama Assist mode, on the other hand, guides you in choosing the correct settings and then in framing your separate images. The download the files into the Panorama Assist 5 Software that comes with your Nikon COOLPIX, and the software joins the images together for your completed panorama.

For more information on creating panorama images, click here.

Rod Planck's website, at www.rodplanck.com, features an extensive collection of his images and information about his workshops, seminars and tours.

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How to create a panorama using free software

How to create a panorama from a photo using free software

No need to think that only Photoshop can create panoramas. By the way, I described how to make a panorama using Photoshop in my review (read the link).

There are a number of free programs that can do this job just fine. And the best part is, you absolutely do not have to pay for them. Some of them do not even require installation on a computer. nine0003

Over the years of photography (over 10 years) I have tried many and decided to collect my own small personal rating of free programs for creating panoramas. So, let's begin!

Rating of free programs for creating Panoramas

4th place - Canon Ptoho Stitch

The good old and free program that comes with Canon cameras. The interface of the program is old, but it performs its functions.

How do I make a panorama with Canon Photo Stitch? nine0016

Step 1 - run the program

Step 2 - select the photos from which the panorama will be created.

Step 3 - start combining photos into one large panorama frame.

At the same time, you can turn on the option to display the seams along which the photos are combined.

Step 4 — Choose panorama generation settings (the program offers a choice of possible options)

Step 5 - crop the edges of the panorama and save to a file.

The result of Canon Photo Stitch is assembled single panorama with cropped edges. Very good, but had a lot of manual work!

3rd place - Hugin program

A free program of a large team of authors with a large but confusing functionality. Too complicated for a beginner in my opinion. Of the benefits - there is support for the Russian language in the interface.

How to make a panorama with Hugin? nine0016

Step 1 - run the program. When opening, there is a set of tips for a beginner - a small bonus from the developers.

Step 2 - Set the settings for creating a panorama using Hugin - the folder to save, the name of the files, etc. There are a lot of settings, so hang on 🙂

Step 3 - Loading photo shots to create a panorama.

Step 4 — Choose the type of lens and look at the aligned shots.

Step 5 — Select the settings for creating a panorama before generating the resulting photo.

Saving the panorama…..

As a result, we get such a processed panoramic photo using the free Hugin program.

2nd place - MS Image Composite Editor program

Yes, yes, you heard right - the letters MS - means that this program was made by Microsoft. And, for free! 🙂

Cons - there is no Russian interface, but the program is so simple that you don't need to read much here.

How to make a panorama using MS Image Composite Editor?

Step 1 - open the program and go to the settings section - the upper right part of the window - see the gear.

Step 2 - Select a photo to create a panorama. The button in the top header is "New Panorama from Images"

You have completed step 1 - you have imported photos for the panorama. nine0003
Step 3 - merging photos into one picture - "Stitch"

After you get a panorama - you can enlarge it for viewing using the sliders.

Step 4 - If you need to crop the photo - go to the "Crop" button.

Clipping uses handles, exactly the same as in Photoshop for this command.

If everything suits you, keep it.

As a result, you get a finished processed panorama using MS Image Composite Editor

1st place - AutoStitch

My favorite free panorama software!

How does she captivate?

no installation required on a PC, just open the archive and work

minimum settings for creating a panorama

small program size

smart frame detection

How do I make a panorama with AutoStitch?

Step 1 - run the program and go to settings

Step 2 - Open the photos and add them to the program

ALL…. I repeat….. THIS IS ALL! 🙂

the program will do the rest by itself.

The result of the program will be a collected panorama from the files that you have added.

If you are still not satisfied with this functionality, you can make panoramas using Photoshop CS (read my article and watch the video on how to do it).

More information about free panorama software:

AutoStitch - Website URL - http://matthewalunbrown.com/autostitch/autostitch.html

MS Image Composite Editor - Website address - http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/projects/ice/

Hugin - Website URL - http://hugin.sourceforge.net/download/

Canon Ptoho Stitch - Website address - http://support-au.canon.com.au/contents/AU/EN/0200246607.html (select the Download checkbox to see the download link)

Video review of free programs for creating panoramas (Rating)

Basic requirements for photographing panoramas - read the article!

Creating and editing a panorama in Photoshop

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Merging and transforming 3D objects

Editing 3D textures

HDR Exposure and Toning Compensation

3D panel settings

Photomerge details

Photomerge™ command combines multiple photos into one continuous image. For example, five overlapping photos of the cityscape can be combined into a panorama. The Photomerge command can combine overlapped photos both horizontally, as well as vertically. nine0003 Original images (top) and finished Photomerge composition (bottom)

Shooting for Photomerge

photographs play an important role in assembling a panorama. The following tips for taking photos for Photomerge will avoid problems.

Images must have significant overlap

Images should overlap by approximately 40%. If overlap less, Photomerge may not be able to handle panorama assembly in automatic mode. However, keep in mind that the images should not overlap too much. If overlap is greater than 70%, Photomerge may not be able to merge Images. It is necessary that individual photographs be at least slightly were different from each other. nine0003
Must use the same focal length

When using a zoom lens, do not change the focal length (zoom in) or delete image) between individual frames.

The camera should be kept at the same level

Although Photomerge can handle small rotation angles between images, rotation of more than a few degrees may result in errors when assembling a panorama. Using a tripod with a swivel head will help maintain the point of view and camera alignment. nine0003
Frames must be taken from one point

When taking a series of photographs, do not move so that all images are taken from the same point. Use of optical viewfinder helps you take pictures, without changing the point of view. Using a tripod also allows you to keep your camera at one point.

High distortion lenses should be avoided

High distortion lenses may interfere with Photomerge. However the Auto option corrects images shot with fisheye lenses. nine0003
Keep your exposure

Avoid using the flash in some shots and not in others. The blending features in Photomerge help smooth out differences in exposure, but a very large difference can make alignment difficult. Some digital cameras change exposure automatically as you shoot, so camera settings must be checked to ensure equal exposure of all frames.

Create a Photomerge 9 composition0009

Select File menu > Automation > Photomerge.

In the Photomerge > Source Files dialog, choose Use from the menu one of the following:

Files

Creates a Photomerge composition using individual files.

Folders

Uses all images in a folder to create a Photomerge composition. nine0003

Specify which images to use using one of the following methods.

To select image files or folders click on the "Browse" button and navigate to the desired file or folder.

To use the files already opened in the Photoshop editor, click on the button "Add Open Files".

To remove files from the original list, select file and click the "Delete" button.

Choose one of the following layout options.

Auto

Photoshop analyzes the original images and applies "Perspective", "Cylinder" or "Sphere" layout, depending on whether which option gives the best photo composition.

perspective

Creates a consistent composition by specifying one of source images (default image in the middle) as reference. The remaining images of the composition are transformed (move, stretch or tilt as needed) so as to fit overlapping areas of overlapped layers. nine0003
Cylinder

Reduces the distorting "concavity" effect that occurs when using the Perspective layout by displaying individual images on the surface of an expanded cylinder. The contents of the overlapping file areas are preserved. The reference image is placed in the center. Recommended for creating wide panoramic images.
Applying Cylindrical Projection
Sphere

Combines and transforms images as if they were drawn on the inside surface of a sphere, similar to viewing a 360° panorama. Given a set of 360-degree images, this layout can be used to create 360-degree panoramas. The Sphere layout allows you to get good panoramic images with other file sets as well.

Collage

Aligns layers and intersecting areas, and transforms (rotates or scales) any layers of the original image. nine0003
moving

Matches layers and trims overlapping areas without transforming (stretching or tilting) the original layers.

Select one of the following options:

Image blending

Finds the optimal borders of images and creates seams based on them so that the colors of the bordering areas match. If you turn off the Image Blending option, normal rectangular blending is performed. This can be useful if you need to manually edit the merge masks. nine0003
Vignetting removal

Removes darkening of the edges of an image caused by optical defects or improper shading of the lens, and performs exposure compensation.

Geometric Distortion Correction

Compensates for barrel, pincushion, and fisheye distortion.

Fill transparent areas with content

Fill a transparent area with similar image content in close proximity. nine0003

Press the OK button.

Photoshop creates a layered image from the originals, adding layer masks as needed to optimally blend the images where they overlap. You can edit layer masks or add adjustment layers to further fine-tune different areas of the panorama.

Use content-aware fill to fill empty areas around an image. (See Using Content-Aware Fill, Pattern Fill, and History Fill.)

Devices such as the Ricoh Theta V and Insta360One allow you to capture full 360-degree panoramic images in just one shot. If you don't have such a device, you can use Photomerge in conjunction with the 3D features to create a 360 panorama. First, the images are stitched together to create a panorama, and then a continuous panorama image is created using the Spherical Panorama command.

Take care to prepare enough shots for the 360° panorama. We recommend using the ultra wide-angle attachment and a tripod for optimal photography results. nine0003

Choose File menu > Automation > Photomerge.

In the Photomerge dialog, add the required Images.

Do not use images that cover the top (zenith) or bottom (nadir) scenes. We will use them later.

For Layout, select Spherical.

If the picture was taken with a fisheye camera, check the boxes "Auto" and "Geometric Distortion Correction". If Photoshop cannot auto-detect the lens, please download free lens creation software Adobe lens profiles from the Adobe website. nine0003

(Optional) For Lens Correction you can select Remove Vignetting or Geometric Distortion.

(Optional) Select Content-Aware Fill Transparent Areas to remove transparent pixels from the borders of the panorama.

Press the OK button.

Choose 3D > New Shape From Layer > Spherical Panorama.

(Optional) Add top and bottom images yourself into the sphere. You can also draw on any remaining transparent pixels on the layer spherical 3D panorama. nine0003

First released in the October 2017 release of Photoshop CC.

Photoshop can edit equidistant spherical panoramas. Import a panorama asset and select its layer, then invoke the panorama viewer by selecting 3D > Spherical Panorama > New Panorama Layer from Selected Layer. You can also load a spherical panorama from the system directly into the viewer by selecting 3D > Spherical Panorama > Import Panorama. nine0003
When you open a panorama in the viewer, you can perform various operations on it.

Rotate the camera view in a circle

Photoshop allows you to adjust the camera's field of view for a panoramic image.

Select the Move tool.

Click and drag inside the field of view to view the panoramic image from the inside.

Rotate the camera's field of view with the Move Tool in Photoshop

Changing the angle of view

Photoshop's Properties panel displays camera properties. Here you can set the camera's viewing angle in millimeters (as in a 35mm camera) or in degrees.

You can also click and drag the Axis widget controls in the lower left corner of the document window in Photoshop to rotate the camera without switching to the Move tool.

Changing the View Angle Using the Axis Widget Controls

Paint on a panorama

To edit a panorama, you can use the painting and adjustment tools available in Photoshop, such as the Healing Brush and Spot Healing Brush. Filters work only in the visible fragment of the panorama. Accordingly, it is recommended to isolate the image outside of the 3D view in order to apply filters to the panoramic image.

The workflow below uses the Spot Healing Brush tool as an example. nine0003

Select File > Open, then select the name of the file you want to open.

Select 3D > Spherical Panorama > New Panorama Layer from Selected Layer.

Select the Spot Healing Brush tool. In the Properties panel, make sure the Drawing System is set to Projection.

Click the area you want to fix, or click and drag to smooth out imperfections in a larger area. For more information, see Retouch with the Spot Healing Brush tool. nine0220

To improve the quality and performance of the panoramic image, create a new layer on top of the panoramic image. When you're done editing this layer, choose Merge To Previous from the Layers panel menu, or press Ctrl/Command+E.
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