Is full frame worth it
Full Frame vs Crop Sensor
By Gabor HoltzerA- A+
Download as PDF
Subscribe Below to Download the Article Immediately
You can also select your interests for free access to our premium training:
Business Basics
Cheat Sheets
Child Photography
Colorful Cityscapes
Composition
Creative Photography
Creative Portrait Concepts
Digital Photo Collages
Fairytale Portrait Photography
Food Photography
Interior Photography
Landscape Editing
Landscape Photography
Lightroom Processing
Lightroom Presets
Long Exposure
Macro Photography
Milky Way Photography
My Camera and Photography
Organic Marketing
Pets
Product Photography
Sky Photography
Social Media
Still Life
Time-Lapse Photography
Travel Photography
Urban Photography
Wildlife Photography
Your privacy is safe.The full frame vs crop sensor debate is a common weighing point for photographers. It’s a dilemma for those buying a new camera or looking to use a different camera body. But do you know why this sensor size choice is so difficult?
We hope this article helps you decide which one suits your needs as a photographer better. We let you know what full full frame and crop sensors are and what each does best. And hopefully, you will learn how to take advantage of each option to take better pictures.
Quick Capture Cheat Sheets
Take your photography to the next level with our easy-to-use cheat sheets, designed to help you capture stunning images quickly and easily.
Buy from ExpertPhotography
×
Quick Capture Cheat Sheets
[ExpertPhotography is supported by readers. Product links on ExpertPhotography are referral links. If you use one of these and buy something, we make a little bit of money.
Need more info? See how it all works here.]
What is a Camera Sensor?
A camera sensor is the rectangular, photosensitive surface in your digital camera. It records the scene projected through your circular lens. The sensor detects light waves. Then it turns the recorded information into electric signals and, eventually, an image.
What is a Full Frame Sensor?
A full frame sensor for DSLRs was derived from film photography. It was created so photographers could use their film lenses on DSLRs. Essentially, a full frame sensor is based on the 35mm frame used in film photography. So full frame cameras have a sensor size of 36mm × 24mm.
What is a Crop Sensor?
Any sensor with a crop factor smaller than a full frame sensor is called a crop sensor. It’s called a crop sensor because it effectively “crops” the full frame image. The smaller sensor creates a narrower field of view.
What is Crop Factor?
The crop factor is a ratio. It’s the diagonal of the crop in comparison with the 35mm full frame diagonal (which is 43.
3mm). The different crop factors are described as multipliers of the full frame sensor.
And sections of an image you see on a full frame sensor are out of the frame on a smaller sensor.
These are the most popular crop sensor sizes in use today with DSLRs:
- 2x Crop Factor: The Micro Four Thirds (MFT) system uses this. MFT has an aspect ratio of 4:3 compared to the standard 3:2. You can find 2.0x crop sensors, mostly in Panasonic and Olympus cameras.
- 1.6x Crop Factor: Canon solely uses this. Most of their consumer-level cameras have 1.6x crop sensors. It’s also called the Canon APS-C.
- 1.5x Crop Factor: Every camera brand, except Canon, manufactures its APS-C cameras with a 1.5x crop factor. It’s the standard and most widespread crop sensor.
Practically, what does this mean? Let’s say you place a 70mm lens on a camera with a 1.5x crop factor (i.e., any Nikon DX body). You will see an equivalent image of 105mm (70mm x 1.
5) in terms of focal length.
Pros and Cons of a Full Frame Sensor
Full frame sensors are primarily designed for professionals or serious photography enthusiasts.
Are you shooting large-scale commercial projects or even professional gigs like wedding photography? Then you’ll probably want a camera with a full frame sensor. They’re a better fit for large-scale prints and higher-end projects.
Better Image Quality and Performance in Low Light
A full frame sensor generally produces higher-resolution images than crop sensors. That’s because they let in more light and detail.
And for the same reason, they’re also better in low-light conditions. They provide sharper, clearer images without setting higher ISOs. So they have less noise.
Broader Dynamic Range
Dynamic range refers to the range of light exposure your camera captures. The dynamic range of a full frame sensor is much broader.
This means you can take better high-contrast images.
Plus, you can more easily recover details in dark shadows and bright highlights (if you’re shooting in RAW)… more than you would with a crop sensor.
Shallower Depth of Field
Your image’s depth of field relies a lot on your lens and aperture. But a full frame sensor can help provide a shallower depth of field.
You get more bokeh with a full frame sensor than a crop sensor if you use an equivalent lens with the same aperture. For example, an 85mm lens with a full frame sensor provides a similar view as a 50mm lens with a crop sensor. But the bokeh is larger with a full frame sensor.
This is helpful for portraits, food photography, and photos with blurred backgrounds.
Higher Costs
A downside of full frame cameras? They are much more expensive than ones with crop sensors. But we’ve already discussed the reasons for that. In most cases, if you need a full frame sensor, it’s worth buying. And it will pay off in the long run.
Besides the full frame camera body cost? Full frame lenses are also more expensive than ones for crop sensors.
Plus, you must buy lenses specifically designed for full frame sensors.
Pros and Cons of a Crop Sensor
Are you primarily taking photos in your spare time or sharing pictures on social media? If so, you can easily use a camera with an APS-C sensor or even a smaller crop sensor.
But more and more niche professionals are using them. They’re discovering the benefits of using crop sensor cameras in their fields of work.
More Compact Size
Crop sensor cameras are generally smaller in size and lighter. That means that they’re more portable than full frame cameras. (Some mirrorless cameras have even smaller sensors these days. And they are providing even more portability than ever.)
Crop Factor Benefits
Are you photographing sports, wildlife… or anything that requires you to get closer to the action? Then you’ll value that 1.5x to 2x crop magnification.
The crop factor of your camera applies to every lens you put on it. Because the view is cropped, your lens is magnified.
This is very helpful with telephoto lenses because it extends their reach exponentially.
Lower Costs
Crop sensor cameras are smaller and much cheaper to manufacture. This can be a big consideration if you’re looking for a budget camera. And if you’re not sure if you want to spend much money on photography? Crop sensor cameras are the sensible choice to begin with.
More Noise and Less Sharpness
Because of their smaller surface, crop sensors collect less light and details. This results in less sharpness and more noise in images.
Also, the density of pixels on crop sensors is usually higher. And they need more resolving power from lenses. So a sharp lens on a full frame might not produce the same sharpness on smaller sensors… even if both sensors have a similar resolution.
Manufacturing sharp lenses for crop sensors is thus actually harder. So you must be careful when buying such lenses. But crop sensors have fairly high resolutions of up to 32 MP.
Conclusion
So, full frame vs crop sensor? Which one is best? There is no easy way to decide whether a crop sensor or a full frame sensor camera is for you. It depends on several considerations, mostly around your budget and intended use.
Suppose you need the best low-light performance or very high resolution. Then you can’t avoid going full frame. And those features will cost you. But suppose you’re using a telephoto lens to photograph objects far away. Or perhaps you want portability. In those cases, a crop sensor camera gets you closer to your subject. And it lets you travel lighter at a relatively lower cost.
I have used both full frame and crop-sensor cameras for different purposes. So if you have to choose one type of camera, think through which will serve you best in the long run. In the end, a camera is just a tool. And you’ll be able to create fantastic images whatever size sensor you choose.
Quick Capture Cheat Sheets
Take your photography to the next level with our easy-to-use cheat sheets, designed to help you capture stunning images quickly and easily.
Buy from ExpertPhotography
×
Quick Capture Cheat Sheets
Full Frame Camera - Six Months Later - Was It Worth It?
A major consideration for many photographers is the size and quality of the camera’s sensor. More often than not, camera body discussion revolves around comparisons between cropped and full frame sensors.
In June 2015, just a few months into my effort to begin a portrait photography business, I was already obsessed with comparing camera body statistics. I just knew that I wanted a Canon 5DMIII–every “professional” photographer seemed to be using one. Thankfully, I didn't talk myself into buying one too quickly and adding $2500 to my credit debt.
Fast forward a year to May 2016: I had officially put my modest Canon T3i through its paces. Dozens of clients and a few small weddings later, I knew I was outgrowing my entry-level dSLR. I bought a full frame Canon 6D and wrote about the transition here.
As of November 2016, I have owned and used the Canon 6D for six months. I have photographed a few weddings, at least two dozen family portrait clients, and who knows how many photos of my own family.
Was purchasing the Canon 6D worth it? Was the Canon 6D the right purchase for me? Should you make the jump from a cropped sensor to a full frame camera?
Over the course of this article, I’ll answer those questions, compare my thoughts now to my thoughts six months ago, and give you a final verdict if you’re considering a similar purchase.
Photograph by Aaron Taylor.1. The Physical Body and Features of the Camera
In my original article, I described holding the camera for the first time as “big and heavy. The 6D is a solid piece of technology.” Yes, the 6D still feels solid, though I don’t really notice its size all that much. If I pick up my old camera, sure, the T3i seems small and light by comparison, but I don’t find myself complaining about the 6D’s size and weight.
In fact, I can’t really think of a time when I left the 6D at home simply because I thought it would be too much to carry. With a 50mm f/1.8 lens, its footprint isn’t much different than my old cropped sensor.
Six months ago, I wrote that I that I still used the Peak Design Clutch on the full frame camera, but that I thought I’d need a different type of strap for longer sessions like weddings or nature walks. My initial thoughts were correct: I don’t use the Peak Design Clutch anymore. I bought the Black Rapid Curve Strap and haven’t looked back. I love the Black Rapid strap for its comfort and security. And I love that I can let the camera rest at my waist during long sessions with heavy lenses, like a 70-200mm f/2.8.
When I first bought my full frame Canon 6D, I fell in love with the separate scroll wheels for changing aperture and shutter speed. After six months of use, changing these two settings is a breeze. However, I wish the ISO button was in a better place; in fact, I wish the camera had a third scroll wheel to change ISO.
The ISO button on the 6D is one in a series of buttons on top of the camera. Yes, you can find it by touch since it has a difference surface than the other buttons, but it’s just not as comfortable or as intuitive as the aperture or shutter speed wheels. As someone who shoots in manual, I want to change the exposure triangle without pausing to think about which button changes what function. The 6D just isn’t quite there yet. There are cameras that get this right: I know the Fuji mirrorless cameras–which are cropped sensor–have separate physical wheels for the exposure triangle. Come on, Canon! Just one more scroll wheel, please!
(Update a few hours after publishing: thank you to Simon Brettell's comment after the article. I have just updated the physical settings of my camera to make changing the ISO setting a little more intuitive. You can change the “SET” button's function to affect the ISO setting if you hold the “SET” button and scroll the wheel for shutter speed. While this is much like the default for changing aperture on my old camera, it is better than the default on the Canon 6D.
Time will tell if I like this setting or if I would still wish for a third scroll wheel. Thank you, diligent and helpful reader!)
Previously, I noted that the viewfinders of both my old and new camera had the same focus-point layout, which was untrue. The full frame 6D has 11 focus points, while the cropped sensor T3i only has nine. Not a big difference, and I often find myself using the center point more than the other ten points. The 6D is Canon’s baseline full frame camera, so its focus system isn’t as robust as more advanced models. The cropped sensor 7DMarkii also boasts a better focusing system. I only mention this again to say that I wish the 6D had more autofocus points; however, as a portrait photographer, I’m often just fine focusing with the center point and recomposing.
The last feature I’ll mention is the AF Microadjust/Fine Tune adjustment that I discussed in the first article. Essentially, the feature allows you to program the camera to counteract any front- or back-focusing that may occur due to manufacturing inconsistencies in lenses and camera bodies.
For example, a lens might actually focus a few millimeters closer than you intend it to. Six months later, I haven’t thought about that feature at all. I think I was obsessing over a new feature and customization. I’ve rented several lenses, and I never thought that I missed focus due to a micro-adjustment problem. I miss focus due to poor technique or a fast moving subject, not a defect in the camera or lens.
2. Are full frame photos better?
Not if you don’t take good photos. No piece of equipment is as important as good light and a good eye. I still take plenty of terrible photos. More often than not, my bad photos occur due to poor light or awful composition. A more expensive camera won’t take better photos. A better photographer will.
However, the high resolution of the sensor has saved many poorly composed photos. I often photograph children, so getting a great composition can be difficult. The kids just don’t sit still long enough to consider all of your composition needs.
With the full frame camera (or any high resolution sensor), I can cut off a big chunk of the photo and still get a 300dpi photo for an 8×10 or 11×14 print.
3. ISO Performance
Over the last six months, I have pushed the ISO performance of my full frame Canon 6D. (ISO is the setting that changes the light sensitivity of the sensor. A higher number means it's more sensitive to light, which means it can capture an image in low light). In my original article, I did a few test photos, pushing the ISO to 16000. Yes, the ISO 16000 photos had plenty of digital noise. But the test photos showed me that I could comfortably push my ISO to 4000 or even 8000 depending on the subject. In a pinch, I won’t hesitate to do an impromptu photo at a wedding reception with ISO 5000.
Knowing that my camera’s sensor can be set that high really gives me freedom and lessens my anxiety about quality. After six months with this full frame sensor, I don’t hesitate to push the ISO setting.
I have a ton of confidence in low light. If I can keep my ISO anywhere below 1000, I know my photos really won’t suffer. On my old camera, I would worry if I went over ISO 400.
I do always remind myself that most “noise” isn’t noticed by your average viewer. Photographers will notice noise, but the average client might not. Think of all the noisy photos you see on social media!
Perhaps my answer as to whether the camera takes better photos should include that the ISO capabilities do afford me greater flexibility and confidence in more kinds of light, especially low light. Also, the Canon 6D is four-year-old technology now. The latest camera sensor technology–say, the 5DMiv–will give you even more flexibility and quality in low light or when you miss your exposure. If you know what you're doing with camera settings and RAW processing, then you could argue that a full frame sensor will help you take better photos.
Photograph by Aaron Taylor.4. Depth of Field
With a full frame sensor, you really get shallow depth-of-field at wide apertures.
I have two f/1.8 lenses, and I know I have to be careful when I shoot wide open at f/1.8. The shallow depth-of-field leaves no room for error. I cannot focus and recompose at f/1.8. I’ll lose my focus instantly.
As I experimented with how sensitive wide-open apertures tend to be, I found myself shooting narrower f-stops, like f/2.8, f/4, or even f/8, depending on the scene. What a difference I see with the narrower aperture! The sharpness of the photo increases tremendously. Most lenses perform significantly better–i.e. they’re sharper–two stops or so narrower than their widest aperture. I have loved that the sensitivity of my full frame camera forced me to use settings that result in better sharpness. Plus, if I’m shooting an up-close portrait at f/4, the eyes and ears are in focus.
If you’re like me, when you bought your first wide-aperture lens, you became obsessed with shooting wide open. You felt like a real photographer, someone who could blur the background while everyone else with a cell phone camera couldn’t.
Shaking the habit of shooting wide open is really tough. But once you do, I promise you’ll love it. Portraits with an 85mm or 100mm lens at f/4 can be stunning. Narrow your aperture. I know you’ll appreciate the results.
5. Size isn’t the issue. Quality is.
A cropped sensor camera isn’t necessarily an inferior camera. If you’re thinking about purchasing a new camera body, the real consideration is where in the line of each manufacturer’s camera bodies you are purchasing. Canon and Nikon seem to have three groups of cameras: entry-level, prosumer, and professional, with some wiggle room depending on the model. Essentially, if you’re paying under $1000US, then you’re most likely getting an entry level camera body. The performance and resolution of the sensor just won’t stack up to the next level of camera body. Spending $1000US to $2000US gets you in the prosumer line, which is where my Canon 6D resides. Beyond that, you’re paying a ton of money and getting an amazing piece of technology.
Chances are, though, that someone paying over $2000US isn’t reading this article, right?
Also, consider what you like to photograph. What do you do with the camera? If you shoot sports and wildlife, where distance between you and the subject might be great, then choose a cropped sensor. You’ll appreciate the added zoom you’ll get on a crop sensor. Even landscapes can benefit from the extra zoom if you need to bring distant mountains closer to the foreground.
Again, the size of the sensor isn’t really what should make your decision. You need to consider the quality of the sensor–there are high quality cropped and full frame alike–and you need to consider what you like to photograph.
Photograph by Aaron Taylor.6. Buy a New Full Frame Camera Body If…
Buy a new full frame camera if you have invested in a few good lenses. If you only have kit lenses, then you should not buy a new camera body yet. You should buy a new lens or two. Buy a Nifty Fifty (a 50mm f/1.8) or a decent zoom lens, something with a constant f/2.
8 aperture. I had three decent lenses (a 50mm, an 85mm, and a 28-75mm) before buying the Canon 6D. I’ve heard it said that you date your camera but you marry your lenses. Your lenses are everything. Money spent on good glass will always be a better investment than money spent on a camera body.
Buy a new full frame camera if you must have low light capabilities. If you photograph events that have awful light and won’t allow flash photography, then the ISO performance of a full frame camera is a feature worth paying for.
Buy a new full frame camera if you have invested in education, practice, and community. If you’ve read a few books, downloaded a few tutorials, worked with a mentor, done a photowalk or workshop with other photographers, and you still think the camera body is what’s holding you back, then buy a new full frame camera. Unless you’re really pushing the capabilities of your entry-level camera and no amount of training or education is moving you forward, then you don't need a new full frame camera.
7. Would I make the same purchase again?
Yes, six months ago, buying the full frame Canon 6D was right for me. Yes, it was worth it. Yes, I would do it the same way again. I had three good lenses, a 50mm f/1.4, an 85mm f/1.8, and a 28-75mm f/2.8. (Though, if I could have one do-over, I wouldn’t buy that Tamron 28-75; sorry, Jim.) With the lenses I owned and the results I was getting from my old camera, I knew I could do better with an upgraded camera body. Plus, I was getting into event photography and needed the ISO performance.
All in all, the Canon 6D is a reliable camera. It does everything I want it to do every time I go out to take photos. I will run the 6D into the ground before I buy another camera body.
What’s also great about the 6D is that I don’t think about my camera body any more. It’s a good camera with excellent image quality. Now, I think more about my lenses and my light. Do I have the right lens for the occasion, and do I have good light to make a photo? The camera body is all about function.
Lenses and light are where you get creative, where photography becomes art.
To listen to Jeff Harmon discuss this topic, here are two podcasts you can listen to: Podcast 1 and Podcast 2.
Photograph by Aaron Taylor.Should I switch to full frame? — Website of a professional photographer in Kyiv
Switching to a full frame is a responsible matter. First of all, of course, because of the high cost of such cameras. Therefore, photographers often have a question: buy a new lens or save up for a full frame? Also, people are wondering: Should I take a full frame right away or get by with a crop when buying my first camera? In this article I will answer these and other questions in as much detail as possible. nine0007
About marketing
Marketers today are trying to get people to buy the coolest camera and the most expensive lens. And it works. If it weren't for the prices, everyone would be walking around with full-frame cameras and L lenses.
It just doesn't make sense, really.
Why?
A good photo , according to my estimates, consists of:
- 10% of the coolness of your camera
- 30% of the quality of your optics
- 30% straightness of your hands when shooting
- 30% post-processing literacy
Marketers of photographic companies play along with the aspirations of many aspiring photographers, convincing them that they need to buy a cooler camera. The more megapixels, the higher the working ISO, the faster the autofocus speed, etc., the supposedly better photos will be.
The specific ratios of these factors depend on the genre of photography. For example, for product photography, I would rate the ratio somewhere like this:
- 10% camera and lens
- 40% ability to expose light
- 50% post-processing care
Therefore, I definitely did not recommend for beginners to immediately buy full frame .
This simply makes no sense. A person won't even notice the difference. By the way, I mixed this shot in crop mode and full frame (it was shot on Canon R - full frame and crop lens). I also advise you to watch this video , where I propose to guess what certain photos were taken on. nine0007
New lens or camera?
When choosing between upgrading your lens or camera, it's also a good idea to buy a good lens first. Moreover, you can afford an order of magnitude more variety on crop. A relatively inexpensive kit that I would recommend for complete photographic happiness to start:
- any modern crop camera Canon
- Canon EF-S 10-18mm f4.5-5.6 IS STM
- Canon EF-S 24mm f2.8 STM
- Canon EF-S 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM
All this together costs about the same as one full-frame camera without a lens. But you get the widest range of focal lengths with very compact, inexpensive and high-quality optics.
A similar range on a full frame will cost 3 times more.
I wrote in detail about crop lenses in this material.
Let's get down to specifics.
What advantages does full frame have over crop? nine0010
1) Wider dynamic range
2) Higher ISO performance
3) Better edge-to-edge sharpness
4) Higher resolution
5) Comfortable focal lengths
6) Comfortable body
And now for each paragraph for more details.
1) Dynamic range.
What is it? This is the width of the light spectrum that is captured in the photograph, the number of shades between completely light and completely dark. It has always been believed that digital cameras are inferior to film cameras in this parameter. But full-frame digital DSLRs can argue with this statement. Crop cameras, on the other hand, are much more likely to produce white spots in the bright areas of photos and dark dips in the shadows.
nine0007
Why is this needed? This is the most important question. It all depends on the type of shoot. In particular, a wide dynamic range has almost no effect on shooting in a studio with pulsed light. This is important when shooting outdoors, for portraits and landscapes.
Here another question arises, how many people even notice this? According to my observations - is not . It’s especially funny when people shoot with expensive high-aperture optics at full frame, and then apply effects a la instagram to the photo, thereby completely killing the dynamic range paid for with hard-earned money. nine0007
2) High ISO
Due to the larger sensor size and increased physical pixel size, full-frame cameras capture more light. As a result, you can shoot at higher ISOs without noise. It's really very convenient. But it should also be borne in mind that modern crop cameras already have very good parameters. For example, the old full-frame Canon 5D at ISO 400 already produced tolerable but noticeable noise.
New crops shoot tolerably at ISO 1600.
3) Sharpness
In fact, sharpness primarily depends on the lens. But the same good lens will be sharper in full frame than in crop.
4) Resolution
There are some nuances here. First, the race for megapixels is actually pointless. Anyway, in practice, 90% of the photos are then compressed for the Internet. In addition, the resolution of crop cameras is quite enough for printing photos. Secondly, the new crops shoot at 20MP, which is similar to less recent full-frame cameras. A resolution of 36MP or more is needed only for large-format printing. nine0007
5) Convenience of focal lengths
The eternal inconvenience of crop is that the focal lengths of lenses must be recalculated. For example, the Canon 24-70mm 2.8L lens on the crop is not wide-angle at 24mm at all. Since in full-frame equivalent you get about 38-105mm. And 38mm is not a wide angle. On the other hand, this problem is solved by a competent choice of optics.
Moreover, the choice of lenses for crop is now very large. However, if you are fond of shooting wildlife or espionage, the crop factor will only work for you - after all, telephoto lenses will give an approximation of 1.5 times more. nine0007
6) Camera body
I added this item on my own, as it is subjective. Crop cameras are too small, they are uncomfortable to hold in your hands. A full frame is much more pleasant in the palm of your hand. In this regard, the 6D is the same as the crop - small and unconvincing. Although crops weigh one and a half times less, which is more convenient for travel.
Parameters by which some crop cameras are no longer inferior to full-frame ones:
- shooting speed
- autofocus system
The Canon 7D Mark II is second only to the 1D series in these parameters. Although, the cost of this crop camera is similar to the cost of a full-frame 6D.
Moreover, some modern crop cameras even have advantages over full-frame ones! I am now referring to the Canon 70D and a number of other new cameras with excellent autofocus in video mode.
Autofocus with face detection in the frame is cool, as well as focusing on the point of pressing the touch screen. nine0007
About my experience.
I have been shooting with crop for about 8 years. I had an ancient Canon 300D at my disposal. In 2012 I switched to full frame and it was a conscious decision. Of course, I felt the difference between the 300D and the Canon 5D Mark II. I must say that the difference between the 800D and 5D mark III is also there, but not so obvious. The new crops are much better.
I would recommend people not to spend money on expensive models right away. You need to start with a crop, and then understand why you need a full frame. nine0007
Professional use
There is an opinion that full-frame cameras are professional. Yes and no. I advise you to read this article about who is a professional photographer. In short, within the framework of this profession, the advantages that a full frame provides are far from being in demand everywhere.
Deciding on such an acquisition, try to soberly assess how and when it will pay off for you. To do this, I advise this article about the prospects for making money in photography.
Total.
A camera with a full frame is, by the way, also a reason for subsequent spending on expensive optics. Does it make sense? My opinion is that such an acquisition makes sense for experienced photographers who know why they need the and why they need the . Do I need to switch from crop to full frame? Decide for everyone personally. The main thing is that the decision was conscious.
Also read:
- Should I upgrade my camera? nine0024
- Are Mirrorless Cameras Necessary?
- Old full frame or new crop: what to choose?
Do you need a full frame? – Simple tricks
Due to the recent emergence of “affordable” DSLRs with a full 35mm frame (Canon EOS 5D, Nikon D700, future Canon EOS 5D Mk II), i.
e. with a one-to-one matrix corresponding to a film size of 24x36 mm, in photo communities, questions are increasingly being asked whether the game is worth the candle - in other words, is it worth switching from a digital standard DX or APS-C reduced by 1.5 (1.6) times. nine0007
At the same time, of course, everything rests not only on the justification of investments (and not even so much), but simply on the price / quality ratio, etc. Given that the price / quality ratio itself, can also be biased floating denominator, when by the “quality” of many consumers add to the “quality” of of the camera itself, more precisely, the functions demanded by different classes of photographers, for each person having a certain unique set), you should go a little further into the issue and look at it a little on the other hand. nine0007
Naturally, we are talking about the numerator of this formula, namely, the price. 5D is in first place here (60,000 rubles - a record low price that his follower will not reach), but only until the fall, when it will be discontinued.
You can talk as much as you like about his wretchedness, the fact remains - his advantage is completely different, just in full frame. The D700 and the second version of the 5D will cost 90,00 - 100,000 rubles, which is quite impressive for a consumer pocket.
The difference in price, in the first place, is determined by the full frame, however, “for the sake of importance”, cameras are additionally stuffed with “meat” - at least this is the approach of Nikon. However, in terms of the number of functions, the differences from top-end DSLRs with a reduced frame size are not as significant as with older models also with a full frame. This approach, in principle, is justified - low-end full-frame DSLRs are bought only for the sake of the full frame, and not for functions, and professional ones - for the sake of both. The choice of DSLRs for advanced amateurs is also determined by functionality. nine0007
Therefore, if you are wondering about buying a full frame or a small matrix camera + a very good lens, you need to ask yourself a few questions, and if the answer to most of them is yes, go ahead and buy “affordable full frame”:
- You are an experienced photographer and you know what a full frame is for and how it is fundamentally different from a cropped one and you earn, mainly or completely, photography (if the answer is “yes”, you don’t even have to read below).
nine0024 - You have a lot of experience in amateur photography using a SLR camera.
- You have expensive non-digital lenses, especially wide angle ones.
- You have lenses that are worth more than the difference between a top-end crop camera and a low-end full-frame camera.
- You often print photos in a really large format (on the wall, ie approximately 30x45 and 60x90).
- You almost never crop photos in the editor by more than 10% of the area, and almost always build a frame through the viewfinder, watching its entire area, so this is not necessary when preparing for printing. On the other hand, if you crop almost all printed photographs by more than 30% of the frame area and always print small formats, buying a full frame is contraindicated. nine0024
- You often shoot portraits and see the “difference between f/1.4 in full frame and in crop” and it really annoys you.
- You already have the same f/1.4.
- You shot on film before shooting digital.
- You already have a complete set of lenses and accessories necessary for shooting, which you definitely do not plan to replenish or change within the next year or two.
- You have almost no (or no) lenses for downsized sensors. nine0024
- You buy a full-frame camera with your own money (not on credit) and do not earn money from photography.
- You haven't updated your camera for a long time and are waiting for the transition to a “qualitatively new” level.
- In a month you earn more than the cost of the purchased camera.
- You don't tend to drop your camera.
- You have extra money that you can't wait to spend, and your wife doesn't mind.
- You really answered all the questions above seriously. nine0024
You don't have to answer yes to all questions - one or two may not be right for you. However, if you answered “no” to at least 4-6 questions, you should think about the justification for such investments. It might be worth taking a more humble approach or just buying a good lens.
