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Birkin bags are no longer in fashion / photo 2023
July 24, 2012
AnGrY_BiRd
Recently, Forbes reported that the famous Hermes Birkin bags, for which fashionistas around the world are ready to give huge money, have lost their it-bag status.
How can they live on?
China is the culprit. The administrative center is Hong Kong, which has long been the financial capital of Asia and a place where luxury is ubiquitous.
In Hong Kong, Birkin bags can be found in every fashion boutique: made of crocodile and snake skin, all the colors of the rainbow and decorated with rhinestones, the legendary accessory for the local rich is not a luxury, but an ordinary thing that helps to socialize in society. nine0003
In order to get a branded bag, fashionistas do not have to wait a long time - they just need to go to one of the Hong Kong boutiques, which offer many models of this bag and purchase one of them.
One of the sellers says:
Our customers buy Birkins from Hermes stores and then sell them to us. Accordingly, we are turning into the largest stock store - we have more Birkins than in the Hermes store itself.
Of course, they sell us bags for 50-100 percent more than they cost at the official retailer.
And it is impossible to reduce the price: because everyone knows that there will always be a person who is ready to shell out such a lot of money. nine0003
In general, if finances allow, then Birkin will appear to you the very next day - forget about exclusivity.
The main attraction of the bag is exclusivity. A symbol of success and a business card that elevates the happy owner of the Birkin to a step above the rest.
As famous fashion blogger Bagaholicbo says:
Do you have a Hermes bag, a Kelly bag? It means that you have taken place, it is considered to be in this world.
This is a status item. And there is a difference between those who save up for years for their first Birkin and those who change bags every week and buy entire collections. Birkin is more than a bag, it's a lifestyle. nine0003
Buyers and fashion critics say that the Birkin is starting to lose ground - the bag has become too affordable:
Too many people can afford to have a Birkin, especially in Hong Kong and Singapore.
You know, the ladies easily go with them to lunch with the neighbors. This, as they say, is not comme il faut.
Blogger Bagaholicbo understands this too:
Yes, it's true. Although I myself do not understand the hype around this bag, but, nevertheless, every month I see more and more new Birkins on the streets of the city. nine0054
In the early 2000s, Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquière gave new life to the brand. Then the American Alexander Wang came to Balenciaga, who tried to rejuvenate the brand, introducing the street aesthetics of New York into it. And when the designer of Georgian origin Demna Gvasalia became the creative director, they started talking about the brand even more than in its best times. Balenciaga and Gvasalia have become synonymous.
DTF Magazine explores how the brand has become a cultural phenomenon and a major player in the fashion industry
UPD [01/20/20]: Balenciaga will return to creating couture collections for the first time since Cristobal Balenciaga's atelier closed in 1968.
The first couture collection in 52 years will be designed by Demna Gvasalia, and its presentation will take place in July this year.
UPD [11/23/20]: Text updated and supplemented with facts as of August 2020.
This text is also available as a podcast. You can listen to it here:
- SoundCloud
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1919-1968. From worldwide fame to closure
The history of Balenciaga began in 1919 in Spain, when the son of a fisherman and a seamstress Cristobal Balenciaga opened a boutique and a sewing workshop in the town of San Sebastian. Cristobal offered the services of a fashion designer to the Spanish aristocracy and members of the royal family, and his collections differed from the silhouettes familiar to that era: he was one of the first to introduce the fashion for dimensionless clothing and presented proportions that were revolutionary for his time.
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Balenciaga's creations went against the grain of women's fashion, but what at first glance seemed like a crazy realization of his ideas became fashion's final word. A bag dress, a cocoon coat - thanks to such silhouettes, Cristobal made a new look at a woman, and his design became a protest of the era, allowing women to dress not only beautifully, but also comfortably.
“Balenciaga is the Picasso of fashion. He experiments with modern forms, while maintaining respect for tradition and classic style, ”said British fashion photographer Cecil Beaton about Cristobal. nine0003
“Cristobal was a master of illusion,” adds fashion historian Richard Martin. “He created ideal things to suit human imperfection.”
In 1936, after the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, the designer moved to France. By opening a boutique in Paris, Cristobal attracted the attention of not only the local elite, but also received recognition from the main designers of the French scene.
“High fashion is like an orchestra, and Balenciaga conducts it. We, the rest of the couturiers, are musicians obedient to his bow, ”Christian Dior spoke about Cristobal. While Coco Chanel did consider him "the only true couturier", and the rest of the fashion designers - "nothing more than designers." nine0003
Balenciaga's regular clients included the French, English, Spanish and Belgian aristocracy. And even more - soon they heard about the brand even across the ocean. Famous fans of Balenciaga are Marlene Dietrich, Gloria Guinness, Grace Kelly and US First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy.
But despite the recognition and commercial success, in 1968 Cristobal suddenly proclaimed the imminent death of high fashion and announced the closure of Balenciaga. His decision impressed clients so much that, for example, Countess Mona von Bismarck did not leave her house for several days, refusing to accept the closure of her beloved brand. nine0003
Balenciaga has never returned to tailoring since.
After the death of the designer in 1972, the house ceased operations for 15 years.
1997-2012. Renaissance: the time of Nicolas Ghesquière
The first attempts to restore Balenciaga began in 1986, when Jacques Bogart S.A. bought the brand and hired designer Michel Gom to design new collections. But the brand still remained without the same attention - in fashion they started talking about it only 10 years later, when the French designer Nicolas Ghesquière was appointed to the post of creative director. nine0003
Ghesquière came to Balenciaga during a creative slump at home and initially worked as a fashion designer for the Asian market. But after the first successes in the development of collections, 25-year-old Nicolas was appointed creative director. In 1997, the designer made his debut show at the Paris Fashion Week.
Ghesquière considered his mission not only to return the brand to fame from the times of the founder, but also to implement ideas that will attract the attention of young people.
“He was one of the first to dust off the iconic house and raise a new generation of brand fans,” Porter’s editor describes Ghesquière’s time at Balenciaga. nine0003
Kering bought the brand in 2001. The fashion conglomerate, which includes Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, saw in the revived and growing brand the prospect of becoming one of the market leaders. After that, they began to demand even more from Ghesquière. For example, Nicolas had a disagreement with the leadership of Gucci. They reproached the designer for the lack of return on collections and demanded that he be replaced if the brand does not generate income by 2007.
Such an ultimatum forced the designer to rethink the strategy, but the result justified the effort. After the release of the Fall/Winter 2005 collection, the sales figures left his opponents without arguments. In addition, Balenciaga's clients include American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, actresses Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman, singers Beyoncé and Kylie Minogue.
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But despite the fact that the brand was again on the buzz, Ghesquière failed to interest a new audience. The main clients of Balenciaga were women, and excessive conservatism did not allow the house to keep up with the trends. In 2012, Ghesquière released his last collection and left the brand.
The departure was not without scandal: the former creative director accused the management of moral pressure and physical exhaustion. Ghesquière sued Kering for compensation. And he received a response lawsuit - for violation of the non-disclosure agreement and denigrating the reputation of the house. However, after personal negotiations, the designer and Kering were still able to resolve the conflict without a trial. nine0003
Despite the difficulties, critics consider Ghesquière's time at Balenciaga to be significant. After all, it was he who returned the brand to popularity among fans of high fashion.
2012-2015. Street view of Alexander Wang
In November 2012, Kering appointed Alexander Wang as Creative Director of Balenciaga. The young designer from New York became famous for his oversized t-shirts and sweatshirts of his signature brand, so critics immediately buried Balenciaga. Then almost no one believed in the compatibility of Wang's street aesthetics and high fashion. nine0003
“It annoyed me that the second I got this job, I was suddenly demoted to a T-shirt and jeans sewer. I suspected that they would say about my appointment, but my first thought was: “I'm not going to answer them and give interviews. I'm going to prove them wrong," the designer retorted.
Wang debuted in February 2013 and immediately began to dilute the brand's strict classics with street style interspersed. His collection differed from the strict silhouettes of Ghesquière, but at the same time, Wang remained faithful to the asymmetry and minimalism characteristic of Balenciaga.
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Critics softened after the first show: “I am very proud of Wang's first collection for Balenciaga. It was a rather low-key show,” Anna Wintour spoke of the collection. “It seems to me that all things were suitable, with a clear nod towards Balenciaga. I think it was a smart move not to give us too many fireworks at once."
Wang has proven that he can successfully work with streetwear and high fashion. His subsequent collections were not scolded by critics, but not much praised either, but even with mixed reviews, he still achieved a double increase in sales. nine0003
Alexander did not lose his clients either - actress Cate Blanchett wore Balenciaga dresses at the premiere of the film "Jasmine" in 2013, Kerry Washington at the Golden Globe Awards in 2014, actresses Rooney Mara, Julianne Moore, Carey Mulligan, singer Lady Gaga and actress Taraji Henson at the 2015 Met Gala Costume Institute - and that's just the beginning of the list.
But after only three years as creative director, Wang launched his last collection and announced his departure from Balenciaga.
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The exact reasons for the designer's departure are still unknown. There were no visible prerequisites for this, at the end of the work both parties showered each other with praise, and the designer himself said that he had left the fashion house in order to focus on the development of a personalized brand. But even if Wang had a conflict with the leadership of Balenciaga, the situation with Ghesquière clearly showed that it was not worth talking about it publicly.
After Wang's departure, the opinions of critics about the results of his work were again divided. The Business of Fashion wrote that without Alexander, Balenciaga was unlikely to lose anything, The New York Times critic Vanessa Friedman reasoned that such short deadlines might become the “new normal” for creative directors, but there were also positive reviews. nine0003
“It has been a wonderful time to watch him evolve and see him contribute to fashion in such an expressive way – for his brand, for Balenciaga and beyond.
And I say this not only from the point of view of an editor, but also as a buyer of the clothes that Alex made for Balenciaga. These things are the treasures of my wardrobe, ”said Glenda Bailey, editor of Harper’s Bazaar, about the designer.
2015-today. Demna Gvasalia's coup
“Play and that's enough,” thought the critics, anticipating the appointment of an experienced designer from another fashion house as the new creative director of Balenciaga. However, Balenciaga not only continued the course laid by Wang, but also invited a person even more distant from high fashion to the post of creative director. nine0003
“By that time it was already known about the preparations for a change of direction - people were gossiping about who would be on the post. I have never been on the list of possible applicants. Definitely,” recalls new Balenciaga creative director Demna Gvasalia.
The Georgian-born designer who interned at Maison Margiela and only recently launched his own streetwear brand Vetements, like Wang, was at first repulsed.
And if the predecessor of Gvasalia adhered to certain canons, then Demna turned the aesthetics of Balenciaga upside down. So much so that Wang's three-year stint as creative director seemed like a prelude to real change. nine0003
From the very first collections, Gvasalia began to play with shapes and proportions in the best traditions of Cristobal Balenciaga, and logomania and layering became the brand's new distinguishing features. Demna brought with him the anti-fashion aesthetic of Vetements and combined it with the luxury of Balenciaga. Gvasalia, like Ghesquière and Wang, also wanted to rejuvenate the house and attract new buyers, but, unlike them, did not stand on ceremony and abruptly led the brand towards streetwear. He already understood then that soon the street fashion, which Cristobal Balenciaga renounced before his death, would become the leading trend in the world of luxury.
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“Demna's unique approach fits him perfectly into Balenciaga. The enthusiastic reactions to his first collections for Balenciaga were a confirmation of how obvious the choice was, ”François-Henri Pinault, head of Kering, commented on the appointment of Gvasalia.
And at the same time, the designer cannot be reproached for not giving a damn about Cristobal's heritage. Experimenting with silhouettes and interpretations, he builds references to the brand's DNA better than any previous creative directors. nine0003
“I never thought: “Oh, I like Balenciaga's cocoon dress, I want to do something similar”. In my work, I see more similarities with Cristobal in terms of overall approach to clothing. I read a lot about Cristobal's work. The turning point for me was the story of one of his clients, a rich woman with the posture of an old woman. When she put on the Balenciaga clothes, her appearance completely changed. She suddenly straightened up and looked younger. When I read this, I thought: “Well, of course, that’s why you need to create clothes.
” nine0003
Working for Balenciaga was a challenge for Demna and an opportunity to create something new. Gvasalia has repeatedly said that despite Vetements prices, he does not consider his brand to be a luxury brand. While at Balenciaga he got the chance to rethink the concept of luxury.
“Working here refreshes me. At Balenciaga, I can work on something that I would never do at Vetements - on new luxury items, ”the designer explained.
Another nuance in Demna's work is a practical approach to doing business. The designer admits that this was most likely influenced by the economic education received in Georgia. Therefore, he does not seek to create simply beautiful clothes that will never go on sale. nine0003
“The things we create are quite commercial and wearable. Perhaps this also influenced my appointment. In many homes, ready-to-wear has become too small compared to accessories, and this seems problematic to me. My idea is that things always come first.”
Apparently, this is exactly what Kering lacked in the collections of Ghesquière and Wang.
Now things of the brand are sold no worse than accessories. And Demna has really managed to rejuvenate Balenciaga's audience - among his fans are Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Luka Sabbat, Kanye West, A$AP Rocky and other teen idols. nine0003
By
ak Gvasalia made the world talk about BalenciagaIdeas that initially elicited ridicule from critics have propelled Balenciaga to the top of the rankings of the world's most popular brands for the fourth year in a row. Here are just some of the factors that enabled Gvasalia to achieve such results.
He turns simple things into luxury items. And makes them all want
Unlike designers who are inspired by everyday things and try to rethink them, Demna is too straightforward. He just takes these things and remakes them using luxury materials. nine0003
This was the case, for example, with a copy of the IKEA bag that Gvasalia released in 2017. Unlike the “original,” which can be bought at every IKEA store for just a dollar and a half, Demna’s bag is made of premium leather and cost $2,000.
After her presentation, even those media that almost never write about fashion wrote about her, and Gvasalia was called almost a heretic. He, according to him, did not expect such a reaction at all.
“I used to go around with an IKEA bag when I was a student. And I always thought how cool it would be to have the same bag, only luxurious, beautiful, - the designer explained. “If I had known that it would elicit such a reaction, then perhaps I doubted whether it was worth creating it. I didn’t have a goal to provoke anyone, for me it’s just a great bag.” nine0003
And this, too, parallels Cristobal's approach to work. The couturier, who grew up in the family of a fisherman and a seamstress, was also inspired by everyday things. He, for example, loved the clothes of ordinary fishermen and even created his own version of fishing shirts.
So Balenciaga accessories like credit card earrings or parodies of Christmas tree air fresheners for cars may seem absurd, but not so illogical.
Made “ugliness” trendy and loved it
When Gvasalia debuted the Speed Trainer and Triple S, Balenciaga was new to the sneaker world. But Demna did not fail - in the same year, his sneakers were ranked in the top ratings of the most hype models of 2017. Even the "ugly" collaboration with Crocs was sold out on the first day of the launch of pre-orders.
Compared to other houses where bags are considered it-things, like Hermès Birkin or Dior Saddle Bag, sneakers have become the main accessory of Balenciaga.
In terms of practicality, both models were really “ugly”. The Speed Trainer was a sock with a sole, while the Triple S was a layered sandwich with a huge sole and a shape that lacked aerodynamics. nine0003
“I wanted Balenciaga to have a serious silhouette. We called the Triple S sneaker because we cut three different old sneakers and then put them together,” Demna explained.
The team didn't expect the model to be successful either, he says: “We weren't ready for the demand.
Everyone asked: “when will the new model come out?”, “when will there be a restock?”. Everyone wanted to know, even the Uber driver.”
Just as easily, Gvasalia killed the Triple S and launched the hiking shoe trend with two Balenciaga Track models. nine0003
And his last two models, sneakers reminiscent of taekwondo shoes, are considered the height of absurdity and they say that in terms of “ugliness” they outdid even Triple S. ugly”: “I don't feel responsible for 'ugly' sneakers or whatever they call them. I don't like ugly things. I don't even know who came up with this, because in fact I love beautiful things. But maybe that's because I see beauty in other things that aren't generally considered beautiful." nine0003
Deliberately focuses on excessive branding and brings logomania to the point of absurdity
The Balenciaga branding has become as recognizable as the Louis Vuitton and Supreme logos. Now you can’t confuse Balenciaga with anything – even on a classic jacket, the brand’s tag will be visible on the shoulder.
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An even more striking example is the clothes that combined the branding of Balenciaga, Kering and the interpretation of the logo of the American politician Bernie Sanders.
Loves oversized. Even too much
Demna changes the proportions of clothes to such an extent that, at times, it is difficult to distinguish between photoshopped memes from the Internet and real things.
Some critics believe that Demna's internship at Maison Margiela influenced the interest in oversized. But he himself says that he has had a love for huge things since childhood, spent in Georgia. nine0003
“I wore clothes for my older brothers and sisters. Even if my parents bought clothes for me, they were still big, because they bought them three years in advance, explains Gvasalia. “But I also wore clothes that weren’t my size because I was embarrassed about my body. So I tried to hide it.”
The designer also admits that although the internship at Maison Margiela and the archives of Martin Margiela really changed his approach to design, Cristobal became his reference for oversize: “When I saw the Balenciaga archives, I thought: “Maybe Margiela was not a pioneer in oversize .
Because the first was Cristobal Balenciaga.” nine0003
So oversized down jackets and seven-layer parkas are also a kind of reference to the design of Balenciaga.
Constantly looking for a new approach to fashion shows
Perhaps he doesn’t have complete creative freedom at Balenciaga, as he does with his personal brand Vetements, which showed at McDonald’s, under a Parisian bridge in a poor neighborhood and in the underground club. But Demna still manages to surprise the guests.
During the presentation of the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, models appeared on the catwalk wearing shirts with a specially created hotline number that you could actually call. And on the podium was a graffiti-covered structure that looked like a pyramid. nine0003
His latest shows are post-apocalyptic productions, where dazzling installations alternate with a catwalk filled with real water. At the last show of the brand, the models really walked ankle-deep in water, and Kanye West sat on the shore of the catwalk.
Created the most absurd among all Instagram brands
Instead of edited pictures, it posts the most blurry and overexposed photos. Instead of brand ambassadors and friends - random models. Which, according to rumors, are sent things, asked to photograph themselves in them and select the most unfortunate photos for publication. nine0003
“When brands worry about the number of likes and followers, I find it pathetic. From my point of view, Instagram should not be just a catalog of things screaming “buy me, buy me!”. This is not good, but only cheapens your identity. Or all those posts with girls posing with your bag. It's just vulgar. You need to use social networks wisely, ”the designer believes.
Capturing the attention of teenagers
After the brand began to produce hoodies, printed T-shirts, jeans, sneakers and other casual wear, the demand for Balenciaga items, as well as the number of new customers, increased significantly.
Gvasalia really made Balenciaga as wearable as possible and proved that most things from the catwalks can be worn. nine0003
Increased sales and became the main rival of Gucci, which occupies the first position in the Kering ratings
According to the head of the conglomerate François-Henri Pinault, Balenciaga's sales figures have become the fastest growing among all Kering brands.
Since Gvasalia's appointment to Balenciaga, the brand's sales have doubled, and in 2019, annual revenue crossed the one billion euro mark.
“High fashion and high fashion are two different worlds, but they also reflect each other. Paris has been stagnant for too long. Now that Anna Wintour is showing up for Vetements and Jacquemus, it's par for the course. It's amazing! This is progress!” Gvasalia says. nine0003
What critics said about Balenciaga's future after Demna's appointment
“What's happening with Balenciaga is nothing more than a fairy tale about the 'new king's dress'.
Everyone fell for the cynical joke performed by Gvasalia. The designer points out to the uncomprehending buyer the things that he should buy in order to give the impression that his fans are “rummaging around” in fashion, ”says Evgeny Rabkin , critic, editor-in-chief and founder of StyleZeitgeist.
“Just look at the streets and see how many people are wearing Balenciaga now. It has become a cult. If you look at Gucci, we are still not tired of their collections. To fashion critics, perhaps. But definitely not to buyers - and this is the most important thing. If something works, why change it?” says Jessica Bumpus , a fashion journalist who writes for The Week Fashion, Nowfashion and Hunger.
“Hype comes and goes, and a brand's constant exposure doesn't always work in its favor. This can lead to fading and bored customers. Perhaps the brand should move away from the hype,” says Harry Fisher , Head Buyer at Machine-A/SHOWstudio.
“As long as he continues to show off on the catwalks, perhaps. The real test for Demna will be translating his antics into real commercial bangers - bags, sunglasses, shoes - something like that. It's obvious that the hype kids are throwing wallets at every new Triple S drop, but that's too small a demographic for a major fashion house. If he focuses on Instagram, where Balenciaga sells tons of basic hoodies, then in this area he will definitely be a winner, ”says Alec Leach , fashion editor at Highsnobiety.
Where the brand is heading now
Despite frequent criticism, Balenciaga's sales are steadily growing, and Demna has already surpassed Wang's mark in his tenure as creative director. And he's definitely not going to leave anytime soon.
In 2019, he left his Vetements brand to focus even more on developing Balenciaga.
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